A new arrival
"What are you doing?" He asks I'm looking at him the pot in my hands ready to clean it. "You're the guest. You can't do this." I'm laughing.I love this. I'm at Berkan's and Özkan's parents house, the two brothers 26 and 29 years young. I had contacted Berkan on Couchsurfing and they initially invited me already when I had arrived in Istanbul being very sick a few days before. Supplying me with medication, checking up on me, taking care of everything for me. Organizing the proper medication (lucky me Özkan is a nurse and did a very professional long distance diagnosis via Whats App after days of not being able to eat, nausea, fatigue, weakness, blood circulation problems, headaches, not holding anything inside, simply feeling out of order like someone unplugged me, existing becoming challenging every day), Berkan coming all the long way of 90 minutes to my hostel, trying to organize me a Sim card that's not overpriced, a metro card and getting it to work, speaking to a bunch of people on the streets, helping us to get it activated for over an hour in 35 degrees heat (unsuccessful), hungover in the chaotic streets of Istanbul becoming so exhausted that in the end he went back home to get some rest and me getting mine heading back when... "Hey, remember me? Your Istanbul card activated? HES code? " Me understand nothing, I hand the man selling the delicious sesame rings -simits- filled with Nutella and cream cheese, my passport and metro card. He just shakes his head hands me back my passport, doing something on his phone, while the other one is trying to convince me to go out for a drink with him at night. I diplomatically decline his offer. Slowly returning to my hostel I feel
exhausted, enough for the first day out in the streets of Istanbul. Again. As I have now for over a week. Not only exhausted but...Fatigue. Drained. Empty. Only walking a few meters would drain all my energy. At least I was getting back on track with my nutrition. Feeding myself. I was hungry. I'm still hungry. Eating three meals a day which is not difficult with these two more than attentive care takers by my side. Both cooking for me.
It's 11:00 am. I woke up an hour ago. Long hours of sleep. Finally. It's what I've needed for such a long time. For weeks. "Lina do you want tea for breakfast?" Yes I want. I want to try everything that the Turkish cuisine has to offer, Turkish culture. I can smell the cooking. This time it's Berkan. "I only need yogurt and fruit in the morning" I hear myself saying last night. "Well in Turkey we eat a very big breakfast in the morning Lina". I happily accept the offer. I can already smell my upcoming breakfast from the kitchen. Delicious.
Maybe this can be my practice for my trip through Turkey. Letting go of my habits a little more, of my ideas of what I want and need in the morning. Do I always need to have my coffee or is there just a slight chance that I can switch to tea once in a while? Become more flexible, question what I got used to and what are my turkey desires in each and every moment. Learning to opening up my ideas in favor of getting to know new traditions, becoming more flexible in new surroundings I'm being taken care of. Like having a warm hearty breakfast with a glass of black tea that I can't stand when I'm back home and would never choose when there are other options. But maybe I will discover that I prefer different tastes in different places at different times.
As I'm writing this it tints out the speakers: "Let go, let go, let go of everything."
"Lina, breakfast is ready."
What a breakfast. Menemen what I know as the Israeli version Shakshuka, roasted bread, different homemade spreads, cheeses, olives. What a delight. And what a good decision to not eat "my own". These kind two brothers opening their house and fridge for me, telling me not to be shy to just be home here, opening my heart giving me the best first impression of what Turkish hospitality looks and feels like. Telling me about the conservative side of Turkish society, getting me off the balcony when I'm trying to hang my laundry because the neighbors shall not see me in my shorts, a foreign girl, half naked on the balcony, this would go around the entire neighborhood, ending up with their mom from the neighborhoods gossip. At the same time they make me understand that Turkish mentality is very open, kind and caring for each other especially foreigners. If there's anything you need, you will get it. You will never be left alone. Lucky me. I can feel those values in every bone. Not knowing I will experience the exact same kindness only a week later, being given a helping hand, having my bag carried into the train, bringing the Turkish care even more alive by being given a 20 Lira note by a man I've never seen before in my life, only because of his kind heart.
For the first time in weeks feeling well rested, chill, cared for and home. Not being able to do anything in this heat which is still to rise in the next weeks, it is the perfect time for me after this in so many different ways turbulent
month of July which has shaken me up to the bones, in my heart, my mind, my body, my all, everything I am, to find back to me, get some insight. To Who I am. August this hottest month of the year will be my rest and remedy. Curing my body first, having it cleared of nicotine and alcohol for almost two weeks, keeping it up, clearing my mind and soul as well as I slowly move on through the oriental delights of Turkey towards the East. As lovely Berkan who's been travelling for four years himself knowing his country very well, being a well known youtuber in the middle East, makes a travel map for me how to proceed from Istanbul towards Georgia providing me contacts of his friends for the spots I may visit. In this well prepared and safe position I feel ready enough to leave the city of Istanbul in the next days moving on to experiene this country and its people's hospitality. In gratitude and excitement for what's coming next.
One busy day in Istanbul. Starting to explore the most busy tourist area of this noisy vivid city on a Staturday afternoon. Streams of people moving through the parks, around the mosques in the gardens, through the tiny alleys of the markets. Like ants completely chaotic in the midst of the brightest shops, bars, cafés, restaurants with excessive ads and overly motivated sellers, offering the most delicious, colorful Turkish delights in all colors and flavors: fruits, nuts, nugat and flowers. Chocolates, cakes ice cream, pies, cookies, pastries, puddings, delicious treats I've never seen before, tempting me on each corner. Baklava in all shapes and sizes with peanuts, pistachio, hazlenut, cashew or walnuts, sweet and crunchy. Turkish tea, çai starting with the classic black through all the fruit flavors one could imagine, coffee, foods, snacks, spices. Neverending squares and streets packed with the most enchanting treats. Amazing and overwhelming at the same time. Chasing through the streets in high speed, sometimes in synchronicity with the rest of the stream, sometimes just being in the way all everywhere wanting to disappear, I barely find the time to even process or enjoy the things I see, let alone sitting somewhere and enjoy some delicious cake. Berkan is on a move. He wants to show me around.
Every now and then people stop smiling excitedly asking if they may take a picture with him which he happily agrees to every time. It feels like living the true Istanbul experience as I am so lucky to catch him exactly the few days between his travels coming from South America moving towards Iran again. After two hours of rushing through the markets we cross over to the Asian side finally feeling a fresh breeze of air brushing over my skin, sea salt in my nose moving across the water, hungry feeding ourselves Çiköfte, getting onto an even bigger alternative bar, coffee, desert hang out restaurant scenery with more overly indescribable sweet treats that only a child in the land of magic could ever dream of. In awe, rushing through the area I end up with nothing, my head exploding from all the impressions, my head desiring all these delicious treats, working my way back to the European side. Tired with only a tiny piece of Turkish delight from across the street iny pocket. Eager to explore again in a more enjoyable pace.
After a short yoga rebound and a fresh shower off into the upcoming day. And so I go into my personal wellness day doing some shopping getting some new clothes for my new me. Slowly walking the streets, this time empty allies, quieter, Sunday mood, up the hill a beautiful view over that turbulent city looking so peaceful from up her, finally entering the holy walls of the Sulemaniye mosque. Kneeling down on the carpet, fully covered, admiring the beautiful paintings on the ceiling above me a single tear drops out of my eye, a wave of holiness washing over me. Making my way back I'm eager this time to find myself the best sweet treat. A nice coffee and the biggest piece of strawberry chocolate cream cake lasting for two days left me with nothing but pure bliss and FULLfilment. No wish left open. Ready for some relaxation I return to do my research on how to move out of the city ending up deciding for a flight to Izmir when all other options became more of a hassle awaited by my new couchsurfing host.
Not wanting to leave Istanbul without having seen a Hamam from the inside I join the group of guys from the hostel squeezing into the small car heading to the Turkish Bath. Having no idea what to expect an old Turkish lady leads me to a room pointing me to get undressed, handing me fabric towel. Naked I follow her onto the bathing area, going into the steam bath. She leaves me alone. Now by myself. Slowly I watch the tiny glittering drops of sweat rising all over my body like perfect shiny little pearls. My muscles relax I close my eyes and feel my warm soft skin extending. After a few minutes my personal wellness assistant opens the door and points me to come out. She puts the towel on the marble stones points me to lay down and starts rubbing my whole body from head to toe, from the back to the front my entire skin starts peeling off brown and dirty like a snake needing a new body, a clean body to live in, free from old burdens. Washing off all the dirty difficulties from the past weeks under the shower I return to my marvel stone in the big hall. Taking the same position lying on my stomach she pours a bucket of soft foam over my body starting to wash and massage me deeply into my flesh and bones to complete relaxation. Feeling her hands move across my body I let go entirely covered in foam, being in the clouds enjoying the touch of her hands more each second. Finishing off the experience with a swim in the fresh pool, I feel completely recovered, like a new born infant, circling around in the small tub all to myself, like a mermaid playing around reborn, fresh and pure to go on, pursue new paths, follow my dreams in trust, even in times of feeling lost, alone or confused. One week of Turkey - Istanbul has passed with heart warming experiences of local kindness and hospitality, finding support at all times, open houses and new friends I'm curious to head out to new destinations seeing what else Turkey has to offer. At the same time still being lost feeling connected to the blistering summer heat of 40 degrees, causing souch destruction, costing people's lives and homes. May the Universe bring help for those in need, cease the chaos, ending the pain that all these fires have caused inside and out.
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