New Moon

Surrounded by darkness. In the middle of nowhere. A huge tropical thunderstorm. Again. Like the other day. Powercut. Like the other day. Only the lightenings flickering across the dark night sky. Only the thunder breaking through the silence. Rainy season has started. Powerful in the green deep dark jungle. Something has come over the island. Not only the weather. As we are finishing off our day with a delicious rice meal news reach us from all sides.

Starting our day by bike to explore the beautiful surrounding in the blistering heat of the sun, putting our first overpriced pineapple in the basket, riding to the lake, passing by the Buddha, finally finding some water to refresh only a little, meeting some new friends. Water, water. I wanted water didn’t I?! Changing our plans, we jump back on our bikes and ride to the rock. Lucky us as the weather would have kept us from our original route. Leaving the lake circling through the green jungle roads, breathing in the breathtaking views of the lakes, the jungle and the temple rocks we drink a fresh king coconut  before taking off our shoes to cross the temple making our way up to the rock. The steps are steep, we’re sweating, a huge lying Buddha under a cavelike rock. We keep walking. It’s not far but the rocks are getting bigger., the gaps wider. We take the rope to get up, climbing around to the next rock wall. Steps become more difficult until I feel I know not how I could possibly defeat the last one with all the gaps between them anymore. My fear of heights and falling, afraid to hurt, coming into my way. I sit down on a rock, watch other people trying different ways, given a hand by the soldiers and trekking crew. When my friend goes up in front I let myself be pulled up by the soldiers as well. One big step to open up a breathtaking panoramic view. It was worth it. Laughing I see how other people crawl under a rock by the trees easily wandering up. I can’t believe it took me minutes to overcome my fear to climb that rock when right next to me there was a path. “It made you grow” she said. It did. 

Enjoying the incredible view on the dense roof of the green jungle trees, walking around the rock, taking pictures slowly we can feel the clouds rising. 

It’s time to go down. A never ending trail of French mountaineers keeps coming up the rock. We can feel the first drops on our skin. They become a flood, waterfalls running from the rocks, the stairs becoming a pool. The noise of the water like a rush, we can barely see the way in front of us anymore. Giggling we celebrate our impeccable timing, arriving at the foot soaked like we’ve just taken a swim. 

We hop on our bikes. The sky is starting to open up again. We’re going back to find some food. “Welcome back. I remember you. You were here before”. Same same. We sit down to eat as all the news start approaching us. Rambling. Curfew. State of emergency. No traveling the government says. No public transport. Cars in flames. The thunder is coming rumbling back. Plans need to be made in the darkness. Transportation to be organized. Private Taxi it is. 

With the torch on her forehead she shines the light on the wall right before we want to go to sleep. It’s a frog. On the wall above my bed. Like little girls we are jumping around, giggling, screaming. It’s moving. Unpredictable. On my bed. What to do. I go to get the guys. Three SriLankan guys helplessly trying to catch the frog with a cup. The scenario is hilarious. We’re all laughing about ourselves and the situation. A frog hunt. Now we’re all awake again. They take the frog and go outside. Oh no. Next one. We’re laughing. The night is not over. 

As we didn’t know what to expect the next morning we finally take off into dream land. 

Waking up, checking the phone. Something is not working. This time it’s not a power cut. The government shut off social media together with the curfew. The island is locked down. 

Packing our things, the taxi comes to pick us. AC, comfortable seats, we feel again this hetero normative white privilege when we go to pick up Sebastian who is happily awaiting us. “So good to seeing you. Great I’m ready let’s go.” It worked. Without further communication. The streets are quiet. Empty. We stop by a spice garden, get a private tour and and lesson about all kinds of Ayurvedic plants, handed a glass of herbal mixed tea of the finest blend, finished off with a massage. On the road we get stopped a few times by the authorities. They see our white skin and wave us through. Never have I felt so white. It’s shocking. The rest of local SriLanka is shut down. 

It’s hot again. In the afternoon heat we jump back into the car. Sebastian shows us the beautiful videos he’s made about Srilanka. The impressions are amazing. This morning he went to this remote Buddhist temple under a rock where a monk is praying at all times, joining him with the view on the jungle. I wish to join him too. As we continue the ride the kings of the jungle show up right next to us. Elephants. So beautiful and free. Majestic and quiet. The closer we get to the coast the hotter the air. We stop for a crisp curd off the clay pot. Refreshing. Arriving the only thing we can think about is jumping into the ocean. The water is crystal. Turquoise like the most precious gem, the beach surrounded by palm trees, little fishing boats on the water, the wooden beach bar serving cold beer. Swings hanging from the palm trees. This truly looks like paradise out of a catalog. I still need to leave. One evening is enough enjoying my amazing company, looking at the stars in the skies, drinking, laughing and finally ending another day of changes. New moon. I will go back. After my coffee hunt I jump into the next Tuktuk, hopping onto the bus and race back to the jungle. The warm air of the open window in my face, the green jungle plants, lakes and clouds moving by me. SriLankans vending their tropical fruits, street food and colorful clothes again. Life seems to be back to normal. In blissful anticipation for what’s to come next, meeting with friends, exploring the nature, encounters to make every day new, I enjoy the views on the trees in the water passing by me.