The Himalayas

The snow peak mountains rising above me majestically. Out of the darkness into the dusk into the day. The sun slowly rising behind the top showing her beautiful excitedly awaited face. The people shout out of amazement, tears start splashing out my eyes, rolling down my icy cold cheeks. This is my life. The Himalayas in winter, the atmosphere magical. The different shades of the mountain layers completing the scenery in front of me. Tourists, travelers. Coming here only to see this. Once in their life. I just come here casually because it was nearby where I came from. Not making much of a fuss where I would go, standing up here at 6 am in 3210m height with a cup of coffee in my hands that a guide bought me because I didn’t bring money. I brought nothing but myself in these early morning hours. My friend handing me the money for the entrance that I’d pay on my way down. 

All these astonished faces when I tell them that this is how I live. Questions raining over me of how I’m doing this. Questions I’ve heard a thousand times before. Questions that seem so much out of question for me. How can you live otherwise? Is my question. The more away I am the less I understand the other side. I have all the same questions for them. The life back there seems so outrageous to me. Strange, distant. Like a far away matrix. It is. I’ve become alienated. Lucky me. Now I don’t feel like a stranger in this world. Only in the one back there. This artificial, disconnected one. 

Women walking across the rocks carrying weeds on their heads, a woman carrying large green leaves becoming part of my dinner. Dal Bat. Finally Nepali nutritious food, unlimited refill. 24 hour power. I need it. The clouds are dark. The rain has replaced the crystal blue sky and my mood swept with it accordingly. Music is playing in the background. Different from this morning. Om Mani Padme Hum. I’m humming in my mind as it’s coming out the window. 

Confusing, shifting my mood like the weather today. My destination changing once I reach the village walking down all the steps seeing my friends sitting in the sun on the table already waving at me when they see me coming from up. I join them. He’s ordering me a masala tea and food. The guide who bought me the coffee two mornings before. At the peak. The mood is bright, they’re smiling. I’m happy until the meeting changes my initial plan.

Confusion starts. All on a sudden I feel lost, a bit helpless and alone. I don’t know where I’m going anymore. Up and down and back. Meek. My focus too much on not spending too much, the universe trying to show me until I have to come back crawling. Find a place to stay. Recollect myself. 

I’m sitting at the  balcony a glass of local wine in my hand, Raksi; the clouds moving I see the rain and I feel at peace. Silence. This is my life. The Himalayas. So mystical, so vast. Our possibilities endless, grand like we could never imagine. Grounding me. And why had I been so upset, annoyed… when they always have a smile up their face. 

After two glasses of local wine and soaking in the dawn I feel my spirits rising again, peaking in the best Dal Bat I’ve had since I came to this country. Yet. Nourishing my body and my soul, served by the wonderful chef, a young man from the region. 

It’s only shortly after 6 and yet my body is ready for some deep rest after this confusing day. 

The next morning I literally rise and shine. It’s 6.30. I had a long deep sleep and feel well rested and in high spirits. Having my first lemon tea in my hands the sun starts slowly rising behind the mountains. The magic of the Himalayas in the mornings making it impossible not feel the joy and bliss of each new day giving birth to new life. A blessing from the universe itself. 

Thinking about where to go, I check the map and for some reason another place raises my attention. Chhomrong. I’ve read about it before. I do some short research and decide to change plans and go to that place. It’s a clear calling. 

Almost an hour earlier than usual I get out and start my first day alone. I feel free and light and happy, going down the tiny ways between the rice terraces. Walking on the main road I run into a solo trekker my age. We stop for a few minutes and talk. Aren’t you a bit early for Chhomrong? I’m confused about the question first. Until… I see myself in him. Overly eager to achieve, to get things done. Things need to be achieved. I tell him that I’m taking it easy all these days and enjoy my 4 hour hikes around. When he starts talking about cappuccino I get the giggles. Apparently I am about to find the first cafe offering real coffee at my next destination. It’s the village I found most beautiful in all the area he says. And I feel that this was the right decision. Our spiritual paths. Different for everyone. And yet there are similarities. A welcome encounter that’s rare in this region considering that 90% of hikers are groups with guides.

As I keep walking the road, my mood only seems to grow more bright with the sun while I enjoy the the same in my face. I hear the river streaming meters below me and think back to the Ganga. How I went swimming in there so many times, feeling the water on my skin.

As the Universe seems to be strongly connecting today only a few minutes later a couple crosses my path, the guy instantly starting to chat, smiling at me. Weren’t you in Rishikesh? I saw you going swimming in the Ganga. It was an inspiration for me so I went too. I laugh my ass off and tell him that I literally had that particular thought only minutes before. Us here in the Nepali Himalayas. 

Excitedly I go down to the suspension bridge I’ve read about this morning. Stepping foot on it the exact same thing as described in the article is happening to me. After a few meters a caravan of donkeys is entering the bridge forcing me to go back. Other than in the article I don’t refuse. It seems the Universe has literally pointed me which way to go this morning for me to experience some of the highlights I wouldn’t have known about otherwise. 

Arriving at the notorious cappuccino place I once again manage to find the lucky place. The Didi is smiling at me, giving me her most beautiful room after I deny another one in a different place telling me not to tell anyone. Exceeding what I’d expected, presenting me a more delicious Dal Bat and bigger Raksis to make me deliriously fall into sleep. Good morning. I hear voices in the morning, waking me the same as I was up too early at 3.30. Collecting myself I get ready to follow the same trail even if I had no time to pull through to the ABC completely. Yet… 

Whoever was in front of me was left behind at some point. How long until Bamboo? I ask. We left st the same time. Even that I took a short dip in the river, I overtake them. He knows. For you 45 minutes he says. It’s shortly before 11. If I manage to be there around noon, I’ll be fine. And I am. Where are your friends? Where is your backpack? Where is your stick? Apparently I didn’t bring any of the expected hiking gear for a proper Himalayan trekker with me. Maybe that’s what’s making me lighter today. Making me go faster than the other ones. The Nepali girls so excited to talk to me again and again in amazement. How are you so pretty? How can we be pretty? How can we not be poor? I say. Never stop learning and go into the mountains. Move your body. You girls are beautiful. They’re making a video. A little excursion I thought. Today an easy last day…

Double effort. She says in astonishment. Lina you’re embarrassing me. It’s impossible. You already had lunch AND returned from Bamboo???? Today I’m embarrassing everyone. The Himalayan stair cases all mine, running them up and down like a young mountain goat they don’t seem to even push me to my limits. Like I told my mom yesterday. It seems they’ve become natural to me. I feel full of energy more than even the days before. 

Closing my week in the mountains with that extra energy I was hoping for. The strength these mountains have provided me these days inexchangeable. The communion of the cold fresh air and my warm body I feel in total synchronicity with the mountains around me today. A beautiful finish for the limited time I had. Understanding a little bit more about the region, feeling safe and held knowing I will be back for longer treks next time. 

If you’re not impressed by anything anymore then what’s the point of your human existence here on earth? I was asking myself only days before. What’s the point of living if not breathing in every little wonder of the world every day. The fascination of the wonders of the world. The magic of nature and people and our all being. I feel grounded. Relaxed. Happy and grateful for a wonderful experience. 

I am for sure impressed by the Dal Bat.